While this may sound great in theory, the reality is that it takes up a seri… And all the other settings that camera has but I haven't mentioned here are left to its default value. If you shoot with a higher resolution DSLR, you can crop the images, change the composition during the post-processing and still have enough pixels left in them to print in a larger size. Unlike other cameras with traditional “PASM” dials, the Nikon D810 does not have such a dial and requires using the MODE button instead. Sometimes, I use the Manual Mode (M) if I have to switch to the BULB mode for the shutter speed while using the filter and taking long exposure shots. It literally saves 9 zoom in button presses! I bookmarked this informative article a while ago, used 3 times and again today, having bought a demo (my last, I promise) D810 body. Let’s move on to other external controls. The “Viewfinder grid display” is a neat feature that creates vertical and horizontal lines inside the viewfinder. I love being able to access Auto ISO with just pressing the Fn button and that’s something you can set up very easily. Although the metering system on the Nikon D810 has the same “3D Color Matrix Meter III” name as the Nikon D800 / D800E, Nikon has clearly made a few tweaks to it to make it even better. The first one is “Shooting menu bank”, which allows you to store up to 4 different shooting menu settings. The solution is to set up your Nikon so that focusing is activated by a button on the rear and not the shutter release; this is known as back-button focusing. If you set the secondary dial on the top of the camera to Timer, then set the “Self-timer delay” to something like 5 seconds, you can completely eliminate camera shake. I would also skip the whole “Timers/AE lock” sub-section. NEF (RAW) bit depth: 14 bit - By selecting this option, camera stores 16,384 (2^14) color tones per pixel for each color channel (Red, Green, and Blue). Before going into the camera menu, let’s first get started on the exterior controls. Shooting Mode and Camera Mode Dials. Continue Reading 0 I practically never record videos, so the two most used buttons here are the MODE and the exposure compensation buttons. Once again, I won’t go into details about each setting, so let me just go over the most important ones that you should know about. Unfortunately, Nikon has not yet implemented a way to automatically compensate for VR, so you have to adjust this setting based on the lens you are using. To keep the clutter out, I have three things turned on: “Focus point”, which allows me to see where I focused, “Highlights” to show overexposure in shots (a.k.a. Basically, these settings add text information that gets embedded into each photograph. I have my set to ‘Focus point and AF-area mode’. Unlike earlier DSLRs like Nikon D700, the D810 will still let you take a shot if you “focus and recompose” in AF-S mode. Close. This is helpful if you are shooting wildlife or any special event which are sensitive to any kind of noise. Nasim Mansurov is the author and founder of Photography Life, based out of Denver, Colorado. If you shoot sports or wildlife, the D810 has a couple of new menu settings that will help a great deal. If you did everything right, the back LCD should get you right into ISO sensitivity settings! Since I use Lightroom to store and process my images, the second part does not apply to me. Active D-Lighting: OFF - I use the shadow and the highlights tools available in Adobe Lightroom and turn the Active D-Lighting off on camera. Doing so will reveal 4 different modes: “P” (Program Auto), “S” (Shutter Priority), “A” (Aperture Priority) and “M” (Manual). The D810 has an internal flash and more megapixels. The best setting to use is 1:1, because it allows you to view images at 100% / pixel level. Assign BKT button: BKT - When the BKT button is pressed, you can change the number of shots for the bracketing and also set the EV value between each bracketed shots by rotating the main command dial and the sub-command dial. Check settings with a screen on top of the camera. I am not a fan of the “QUAL” button and its location, since I have accidentally switched my image quality format a few times in the past. Image Area: FX - Image covers the whole sensor area of the FX camera. Using the front dial will allow changing bracketing steps and the rear dial will change the number of frames shot in a bracketing sequence. Just press “OK” one more time and you will see this on the top of the “My Menu” window. This is great for Weddings and Events as you see someone that needs to be a portrait you do not have to move the focus point to get the photo before the moment is gone. Type: Lossless compressed - When you select this option, the camera will compress and store the RAW file without losing any color tones information. Z6ii vs. Z7ii which has better tonal gradation? It has complete and separate camera setup recommendations for different types … If you already have some favorites saved, make sure to move this one to the very top. Is there a reason why you don’t shoot Raw? But being a non-video company Nikon put it first through D90, whatever may be the format! Once Nikon fixes this feature so that it works in any Live View mode, it will be even more useful. The D810 allows bracketing up to 9 frames and up to 3 stops (EV) apart. Then go to “Add items” -> “Shooting menu”. Volume: OFF - I turned the beep volume off so that the camera won’t beep every time the subject is in focus. Similarly, make sure that bracketing is also turned off by holding the button and checking the top camera LCD. The “Auto” minimum shutter speed setting is great, because it reads the focal length of the attached lens and automatically adjusts the minimum shutter speed to the focal length of the lens. This setting controls how quickly your autofocus will re-engage when it detects focus errors. After it waits for 5 seconds, the “Exposure delay mode” feature kicks in and the mirror is raised. The D810 has a lot of menu options, but there are some things that you can only control with external controls. When shooting birds in flight, I tend to reduce that setting to short delays, because I want autofocus to re-engage even with smaller changes. But lately, I have been focusing manually by sliding the focusing switch on the lens barrel to M and set the focusing distance to infinity which prevents the camera from reacquiring the focus for the future shots during the bracketing. The rear dial allows you to change white balance, while the front dial allows fine-tuning it. In order, the full-frame DSLR cameras that I have had throughout my career are: the immortal Nikon D700, D610 and D810.Between them I’ve own in the past a Nikon D750 but it didn’t last as far as I was thinking because I never felt good with that camera in my hands.. But if I am using 70-200 mm f/2.4, which I use for the portrait most of the time, I usually use a larger aperture (small aperture value f/2.4-f/5.6 for example) to soften the background and get some bokeh. level 2. If I want the camera to fire multiple shots when shooting action, I switch to “Ch”. The Nikon D800 and D810 have the capability to take amazing underwater photos, if the settings, composition, and lighting all come together. On the top left side of the camera you will find a large dial with buttons on … From there, pick “Access top item in MY MENU” and press OK. Now test it out – close the menu, then press the “Fn” button on the front of the camera. This works just like pressing the dedicated ISO button – rear dial changes ISO and front dial turns Auto ISO on and off. The “AF activation” setting on my D810 is always set to “OFF” (AF-ON only) to allow me to use the dedicated AF-ON button on the back for focusing. The sensor could record RAW images at a whopping 7,360×4,912 pixels. “Image quality” is obviously set to RAW, since I only shoot RAW. There are three magnification levels to choose from: “Low magnification (50%)”, “1:1 (100%)” and “High magnification (200%)”. While I like the ability to quickly turn Auto ISO on and off, I typically end up mapping the Fn (Function) button on the front of the camera to Auto ISO settings, so that I can make changes to maximum sensitivity and minimum shutter speed (see my notes below under Custom Setting Menu). Knowing how successful that feature was, it’s no surprise that Nikon’s newest model, the D810, keeps the same resolution giving you the ability to take pictures with the kind of detail that was once the exclusive domain of scientists and spy satellites. I never mess with any of the “Metering/exposure” settings, so I would just recommend to leave them at default values. Here is a quick recap: If you cannot decide which one to start with, I would recommend to go with the AF-C mode for continuous tracking instead of AF-S. Now if you rotate the front dial with your index finger while holding the same button, you will get many different options like “S”, “D 9”, “D 21”, “D 51”, “3D”, “GrP” and “Auto”. The Nikon D810 is a 36.3-megapixel professional-grade full-frame digital single-lens reflex camera produced by Nikon.The camera was officially announced in June 2014, and became available in July 2014. If the subject is dark, the front light will turn on and illuminate the subject you are photographing, which will help the autofocus system to acquire proper focus. If you are more interested in shooting buildings and architectures, you would get better results by using the tilt-shift lens which allows you to move (tilt and shift) the part of the lens in relation to the image sensor in a wide range of directions and gives you the better and more natural perspective of the structure. I usually set mine to Overflow, unless I am working on something really important and need to backup images. Basically, you can set up the center button on the multi-selector to zoom in and out to a set magnification level when reviewing images with a single press of the button! Since I shoot in different environments a lot, I like to be able to change my Auto ISO settings quickly. I rarely use the Shutter Priority (S) mode but if I am shooting sports, birds or taking panning shots, then I dial into the S mode. You can set it to “Overflow”, which basically saves images to the first card, then when the space runs out, the camera starts saving to the second card. My Camera Settings For Nikon D810. Primary slot selection: CF - This makes Compact Flash memory to be the primary location to store images. The good news is, you can name each bank with a custom name like “Landscape”, “Portrait”, etc. The nice thing is, you can specify up to 3 seconds of delay, which can completely eliminate the dreaded “mirror slap”. Although color space does not matter for RAW files, I now use AdobeRGB because it gives a slightly more accurate histogram to determine the correct exposure (since the camera shows histogram based on camera-rendered JPEG image, even if you shoot exclusively in RAW). The exposure compensation button nicely complements the Aperture Priority mode and the AE-L / AF-L button on the back serves me really well when I need to lock exposure. So instead of being at the bottom left, it will now automatically move to the top of the frame. Make sure to keep that lever on “AF”, or your lens will not autofocus. There is no way to save menu banks. I find the light to be helpful in low-light situations, so I keep that setting turned on. In this article, I will provide information on what settings I personally use and shortly explain what some of the camera buttons and controls do. The quickest way is to press the “i” button on the back, then choose a different bank for “SHOOT” or “CUSTOM”. Introduction To Different Exposure Modes - Which Exposure Mode Should You Use? If you have shaky hands, you can change the Minimum shutter speed Auto to be one step closer to “Faster”, which basically doubles the minimum shutter speed. The below information is provided as a guide for those that struggle with the camera and just want to get started with a basic understanding of the camera and its many features. Thanks in advance! For your day to day shooting, just leave it on “Overflow” and if you really need to make sure that your photos are not lost if one of the cards fails, then choose “Backup”. Understanding An Aperture And The Depth Of Field, Understanding Metering And Metering Modes In Photography, What Is An Exposure Compensation - Understanding Bracketing. I would increase the ISO only if I have to increase the shutter speed (at night) in order to capture the moving subjects without getting it blurred. If you want more info on why I upgraded to the D810, you can read about that here.. The only two settings that I ever mess with are “Playback display options” and “Rotate tall”. I found that for shooting video with the D810 I'm better off manually focusing. 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